Tryst with the Gods

Gaumukh-Tapovan-Nandanvan-Vasuki Taal trek


Photographs can be seen at:

http://www.orkut.co.in/ExternalAlbum?uid=17222778662928045236&aid=1255935806&t=10674432075372968452&vid=09415311337540897468&ik=ACGyDXsJeB_-h_w9dXsOOlj4xXVDBRnitA
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25/09/2009: Delhi-DehraDun

Myself, RK, Tarun & Lalit embark on a train journey on 25th morning from Delhi to DehraDun. We reach DehraDun by noon & settle down at my place. The other guys (Mohinder, Ameet, Bhagat, Rajesh & Lokesh) will join us tomorrow early morning.
After having lunch & discussing the days plan with my Mom & Dad, we rest until evening.
Two major tasks need to be completed today:
1. I have prepared a list of groceries which we need to purchase
2. Arrange for Cabs from DDun to Uttarkashi

Lalit & I venture out in the evening to buy the stuff. It takes quite some time to get the groceries & we return home just in time for Dinner. In the meantime I'm constantly in touch with the cab guy in order to confirm a cab for tomorrow morning.
The young guys are fascinated by my Mom’s electric car “Reva” & take turns to drive the little car.

26/09/2009: DehraDun-Uttarkashi-Gangotri

My sleep is rudely interrupted by my phone alarm at 0500 hrs. I immediately contact the cab guy who asks me to meet him at Rispana bridge (3kms from my house) on Haridwar road at 0515hrs. He has two cabs ready for Uttarkashi. I direct one cab driver to pick my other group of friends from the railway station. The other follows me back to my house. It starts raining heavily and I get apprehensive of the weather in the mountains.
There a railway crossing on the way to my house. On my way back, the barriers are down & I’m forced to wait. Ironically, the very train by which my other group of friends is arriving crosses my path!
As I reach home, I wake up RK & co. to get them ready before the other group arrives. By 0630, the other cab arrives & the guys hurriedly get inside to avoid getting wet from the heavy downpour. We all know we have to leave early if we have to make it to Gangotri by evening. The guys take an hour to get set for the long hill journey ahead.
My Mom has prepared breakfast for all (9 of us). Post breakfast, we load our stuff into the cabs & leave my place by 0800 hrs.

The drivers cite a taxi union problem & want to avoid the Rishikesh route. Alternatively, we take the Mussoorie-Dhanolti-Chamba route. Within minutes, we are cruising on the winding hill roads. As we ascend, the rain thins out into a drizzle and a dense fog has engulfed the route. Lokesh is not comfortable with the frequent twists and turns & throws up every few minutes. A few km short of Mussoorie, we take a detour towards Dhanolti and then a short break at Surkanda Devi temple. The verdant slopes with misty settings are a welcome change for city dwellers like us.
We reach Chamba by 10:30 and buy fresh vegetables for the trek. Post Chamba, the meandering road gets snakier with the turning getting very intense. RK is not comfortable for sometime now & does the inevitable. In the cab ahead, Lokesh is on a vomit marathon. Their sickness is soon eclipsed by the ever changing scenery. The beautiful landscape with patches of terrace farming, the seemingly never-ending Tehri reservoir in the valley below with tales of villages submerged in the reservoir, a remote hill house in the middle of nowhere, all captivate our imagination.
The curves get smoother post Dharasu and our cab lags behind, thanks to a flat tyre. I call up Mohinder & give him details of our contact in Uttarkashi so that he can hurry up with the formalities. I have been in constant touch with Mr. Karan of ‘Chandra Sang Adventure Foundation’ for the past few days in order to procure the necessary permits, hire a guide, arrange kerosene oil, tents (for porters) & a rope.
We reach Uttarkashi by 1500hrs only to leave in a few minutes. The guys suggest having lunch at Uttarkashi, but as time is short, finally decide to move ahead with some fruits & biscuits.

We leave Uttarkashi by 1530hrs and hope to reach Gangotri by 1900hrs. As we ascend, the road condition starts deteriorating with several streams eroding the tarmac to rocky patches. But no slush; still much better than 2006/2007.
It gets dark a few kms short of Harsil. By the time we reach the Gangotri settlement, its 1915hrs. The weather is very pleasant, not as cold as it used to be in previous years. We check into our regular hotel, offload the stuff & hang out. The chaps are busy making phone calls to their sweethearts! Surprisingly, my Reliance phone is still connected to the network. I manage to evade the escalated call tariffs charged by the unscrupulous phone peddlers, cheats, charlatans. So my advice is to procure a BSNL or reliance prepaid card before coming here. Believe me; it’ll save u a lot of money.

The famished group locates a dhaba and the eatery is soon operating beyond its full capacity. The ten of us (9 + 1 guide) go on a rampage. Other guests at the dhaba get frustrated as their services are severely affected. We end up with a huge bill.

This year Gangotri is expensive at all fronts. Ever since it was declared a National park last year, the cost of living has gone up considerably. Even our hotel is costlier this year. The electricity scenario seems to have improved with CFLs lighting up the small town.
After dinner, Mohinder & I go out looking for porters to hire. We locate a few porters huddled up in a corner who demand an exorbitant Rs.700 per day. In 2006 & 2007, I remember having hired porters for Rs. 250 a day. We are unable to find any porters ready for wages below Rs.400 a day. Exhausted, we deicide to look for porters early morning and finally retire for the day.

27/09/2009: Gangotri-Chidbasa-Bhojwasa

It’s the big day and we wake up early. Also, the porters are yet to be hired. Our morning chores are at full swing with the hotel guy shuttling between rooms with buckets of hot water.
Hiring porters has never been so difficult. Although we run into many porters, all of them quote high rates. Mr. Karan from Uttarkashi had warned me about the tantrums of porters in Gangotri, and had advised us to hire them from Uttarkashi. We regret not having paid heed to his advice. A lot of time is wasted before we get any porters. Finally, after a lot of haggle, we bow to their demands and hire six porters @Rs. 400 a day per porter.
Our last meal in civilization is a sumptuous parantha breakfast. Bhojwasa is 14km from Gangotri. Fully loaded, we manage to trek out of Gangotri at 1000hrs. We’ve tried to keep our backpack limited to 6-7kgs.
We reach the check post at 1030hrs, submit our permits, make payments, and move forward by 1100hrs. To communicate, we have 3 Motorola long range radios tuned to a common channel. With time, we break into smaller groups, with each group manning a radio. Bhagat & I lead the trail with our guide Tripan Singh accompanying the other guys.
Mohinder, Rajesh & I are back on this trail for the second time. The first time was an unsuccessful and disappointing retreat in 2007 after weather played spoil sport and it snowed heavily in Bhojwasa. This year weather seems to be favorable, with weather prediction portals forecasting sunny conditions for the forthcoming week.

One has to cross quite a few streams that have makeshift logs placed athwart. Its fun to go across and more fun to watch nervous pilgrims traverse them with cold feet!
The trail is well marked and the climb is gradual. After a while we reach Chidbasa & take a short 10 minute well deserved break. It is a pleasant respite nestled in the trees where one can relax, replenish water bottles and have tea in a small room. Chidbasa marks the end of Tree-line.

As the trees sparse out, the afternoon sun brightly shines upon us. Keeping oneself hydrated is very important. In fact, some of the guys have taken it a step ahead & are carrying Electrol!
No lunch for us today. Bhagat & I have our stock of chocolates to keep ourselves going. We narrate our escapades to each other while occasionally halting to admire the Majestic views. The mighty Ganga surges downstream towards Gangotri on our right and sounds like one of those old TV sets without any signal, its volume varying with our distance from the basin. As we close in on Bhojwasa, the Bhagirathi peaks appear on the horizon. We reach Bhojwasa at 1515 hrs & wait for our friends at gmvn guest house. Ameet joins in at 1600hrs with the rest trickling in till 1630hrs. After a hot cup of tea, we identify a camp site and quickly start pitching our tents. As it gets windy, we have problems settling the makeshift kitchen tent made of tarpals(not a very good idea). I fetch the food ration, kerosene stoves and cooking utensils and direct the guide to prepare dinner. It gets very cold after sunset, but fortunately the wind subsides. We all have a nice preparation of daal chawal with desi ghee and call it a day.
The porters complain of the cold and want extra sleeping mats. We reprimand them on not informing us of the problem at Gangotri. We have taken two four man tents on hire for them and could have somehow arranged for sleeping mats at Gangotri. Here, at Bhojwasa, with very limited resources, it’s difficult to arrange for gear. (Another problem we would have avoided had we hired porters from Uttarkashi)
I walk down to the gvmn guest house to request for some mats/quilts, but the guys out there are not the helping kind. Also the ashram next door has nothing to offer. Finally the gvmn guys agree to accommodate the six porters in a small store room for a sum of Rs.300. We have no choice and the porters move into the room for the night. We wonder how they’ll survive the extremities at Tapovan and Nandanvan in the coming days.
As I return to the camp, Lalit has been affected by the altitude sickness. He violently throws up all that he had for dinner just outside his tent. We retire with the hope that he’ll recover by morning.
Meanwhile back in my tent with Bhagat, I can hear Mohinder, Rajesh, Ameet & Lokesh making an interesting conversation. Later in the night, we hear some weird noises coming from a distance and choose to ignore the commotion.
I enthusiastically pull out my GPS phone, and activate the “location” menu option. The GPS tracks the satellites and zeros in on the position coordinates. It displays the following data:

Latitude: 30 deg 57’01.20”N
Longitude: 79 deg 03’09.14”E
Altitude: 3768m

I store it as a landmark and go to sleep. And yes, GPS devices work well inside a tent.

28/09/2009: Bhojwasa-Gaumukh-Tapovan

Today we are looking forward to reach Tapovan by late noon. Mohinder, Ameet & I walk down to the gushing Bhagirathi below. We intend using the ice cold water for brushing our teeth. My hands are numb by the time I’m finished. We admire the mighty force with which water is flowing and hurry back to the camp. I quickly get the bread loaves out along with a choice of milkmaid, peanut butter & jam. The guys are happy but the porters want something more filling. We ignore their fuss and continue with our breakfast.
Lalit has not recovered from last night’s sickness & decides to stay back and return to Gangotri at the first opportunity. We enquire about the strange noises that we heard last night. Two things happened last night. Our guide tells us that there was a major fight between a group of under training civil services (IAS/IPS guys from Mussoorie) and some big shot senior police official over booking at gvmn guest house.
Secondly, an aged German trekker expired at Bhojwasa last night. He was unwell at Tapovan and was brought down to Bhojwasa at 2230(at night); but his condition became bad to worse.

The last of us (Bhagat & I) walk out of Bhojwasa by 1015hrs along with our porters. The trail is as well defined as it was till Bhojwasa with occasional warning signs reminding us of our proximity to Gaumukh. The enormous grand face of the Gangotri glacier dominates the vantage points. The source of the Ganges is a cave on the left side of the mammoth ice structure. Warning signs advise a minimum distance of 500m from the glacier.
I maintain a not-so-safe 200m distance from the glacier. Mohinder gets bold and goes within meters of the ice cave. He’ll do anything to capture a good photograph. It’s kind of risky because one never knows when a large glacial ice section might give way & wreck havoc in its vicinity.
Bhagat and I spend over an hour on the banks of the nascent river. Both of us drink water directly from the river that is considered very holy by the Hindus. RK is with us for a while before disappearing beyond the ridge. Bhagat does a symbolic ganga snan & I too give myself a cold sprinkle on the upper half complete with a surya namaskar.
Gaumukh is normally the final destination for pilgrims coming from Gangotri. One doesn’t need a guide for coming till Gaumukh. Guidance is needed only beyond Gaumukh.
The guide is waiting for us at the ridge while others have moved on. He signals us to hurry up so that we can head for Tapovan. We get our clothes on and scamper up the ridge with loose mud & rocks on its slopes.
The trail becomes very rocky with boulders strewn all over the place. As we ascend the Glacier from the left side we notice that the irregular icy serrations that were visible from the front are actually huge walls of ice in tandem with crevasses sandwitched between them.
With exception to the mouth of the glacier pitted with soiled icy crevasses, the rest of the glacial terrain is all muddy and rocky. Having to negotiate numerous boulders is a major pain & energy sapping. Bhagat & I soon cross the porters and a few guys catching up with their breath. The final climb to Tapovan is very steep and narrow. A small stone at the Tapovan top marks the end of the punishing climb. We meet Rajesh & Ameet in this final demanding phase. Rajesh has been enduring a cramp in his right thigh since Chidbasa. The four of us encourage each other and carry on intermittently on the formidable terrain. We take rest at a point where we cross a small waterfall. The rock on its bank is painted “sky ganga”. A few tiring minutes later we finally set our foot onto Tapovan: playground of the Gods; a not so green meadow sprawling in the lap of the mighty Shivling peak. A much deserved relief for the exhausted. We choose a campsite next to a ridge beside a small stream.
Our army of porters arrives with our stuff and as usual set up the kitchen tent at priority. The rest of the guys trickle in over the next half n hour. Everyone is busy setting up their tents to get cozy as soon as possible. In no time it gets cold and windy with the place swarming with snowflakes. I huddle up with the guide & a couple of porters in the kitchen tent and get the stove running to cook some Maggi. RK & Tarun are also in the kitchen Tarpal with their tents yet to be pitched. After finishing with the Maggi, I get hold of two reluctant porters to hasten putting up their tent. As we pitch the tent, the flaky cold wind is chilling my bones.
My feet have become numb and no amount of woolens will warm them. Bhagat massages my feet and I feel much better. Once warm again, the sleeping bag traps the heat to keep them snug.
The dinner is bad and I don’t eat the burnt dry rice with an equally poorly cooked daal. RK & I have “sohan papri” to our rescue.
Tonight is Dussehra and I have a surprise event for the guys. During our shopping, I had this brain wave to purchase some paraphernalia for celebrating Dussehra at Tapovan. The guys are all armed with swords, scabbards and “gadas”(Hanuman’s weapon). A ceremonial conflict ensues with all of us charging at Mohinder shouting “Ravan ko Maaro”; the poor fellow is heating water in the kitchen tent. For the next few minutes all of us engage in symbolic conflicts with sound effects worthy of Oscars. The porters are very amused!
After the merry making, I get back to my tent to check out my GPS reading. This is what it says:

Latitude: 30 deg 55’03.32”N
Longitude: 79 deg 04’35.29”E
Altitude: 4291m

29/09/2009: Tapovan-Nandanvan

The frozen stream next to our ice coated tents is a reminiscent of the chilly night. The first sun rays graze the meadow at around 0630 hrs. Shivling, Bhagirathi and Meeru peaks stand out brilliantly in their morning glory. I notice strange bands of ice on the ground which appear to have been artistically tied like a ribbon.
The guys are all spread out in the meadow exploring the place and clicking photographs. I too clamber up a small hillock to bask in the morning sun. I feel at peace and deliberate in the tranquil surroundings for sometime. RK is further up in a small makeshift temple in a rocky cave with some baba and his disciples. He shouts & waves at me, but I don’t wish to meet any baba.
The Guys are tired and don’t want to trek further. They want to spend the day at Tapovan and then return to Gangotri the next day. And I am in no mood to stay any longer in Tapovan and insist on proceeding to Nandanvan. Gulping down cornflakes with milk, Mohinder & I discuss various options and agree on splitting the group. Meanwhile, Ameet is engaged in conversation with some Bangalore guy who too is camping with his group. The Bangalore guy creates an atmosphere of panic and fear to discourage any further movement. He talks like an expert about the dangers in crossing the Gangotri glacier with open crevasses citing an example of a group that is stuck in Nandanvan for 20 days.
On the contrary, our guide Tripan Singh is very calm and confident about going to Nadanvan. Bhagat, Tarun and I break away from the rest of the group to move further to Nandanvan. We split rations; pick two of the six porters for the journey ahead.
I thank Mohinder & Ameet for their consideration and agree to be in touch through our radios (if possible).
Yesterday, during the vertical Tapovan climb, the thought of descending the steep mountain face gave me the jitters. Going to Nandanvan meant, not having to encounter that nasty slope downhill. Bhagat & I celebrate this inference!
The guide is moving along the top of the ridge to identify a suitable spot to descend into the glacier. The Glacier’s appearance is far from icy white. The Glacial moraines are all covered with mud and rock and small water pools with floating ice cropping up sporadically. We follow the guide and porters into the valley inundated with boulders. As there is no trail here, we closely follow each other; frequently climbing up and down the moraines. On the way, there are trail markers where stones are stacked like a small pyramid; a discernable regular pattern in a sea of randomly spread rocks and stones.
We are continuously applying our mind and straining our body to cross this mess. Any loss in alertness can make one lose their footing on the precariously heaped boulders. In a hair-raising instant, Bhagat looses foothold on a pile of rocks, and the boulders go crashing down into an ice pool. I’m very close and manage to clasp his shoulders. We don’t speak while negotiating the terrain and constantly remind ourselves to be cautious at all times. An occasional crackle of glacial ice breaking away can be heard while passing by pockets of melted ice puddles.
The panorama on the western side starts to get grander as we get closer to the Nandanvan base. The mammoth snow covered Kedar dome (6700m) gradually comes into full view. As I glance back at Tapovan, the Shivling peak (6500m) has changed appearance and looks even more remarkable. The final stretch involves a brief climb before another breathtaking meadow opens up abruptly. Nandanvan landscape is similar to Tapovan, located in the lap of Bhagirathi peaks, on the North-eastern side of the Gangotri glacier. The time is 1330hrs and it has taken us around 3.5 hrs to reach Nandanvan from Tapovan.
We come across two very jovial and lively persons who have been camping in Nandanvan for over a week, waiting for their groups who are out to conquer Shivling and Bhagirathi peaks. They are Mr. Munesh and Mr. Khan from Mumbai. Both are accomplished mountaineers who presently arrange expeditions for climbers. We setup our camp next to theirs and disclose our plans to go to Vasuki Taal tomorrow. They are very encouraging and Mr. Munesh agrees to join us in the final leg of our Trek to Vasuki Taal.
As all of us enjoy our Maggi lunch, we are reminded of the pretender from Bangalore who portrayed a grim picture of the route that we just covered. We laugh to our hearts content making fun of the puny guy who knew too much! (or too little)
I turn on the Motorola radio with all doubt & uncertainty to transmit a couple of calls. No response… just silence. I curse the undulating terrain for obstructing the line of site. And then suddenly the radio comes to life with the guys in Tapovan acknowledging my call. I’m elated like what Marconi felt across the Atlantic! Here, we are a few km across a Glacier! The radio link is loud and clear.
I’m also surprised to see that FM from Delhi is received clearly in Nandanvan on a regular FM receiver. I believe we’re aligned well with New Delhi. It feels strange when RJs talk about traffic jams in Delhi!
Next I turn on my GPS phone and store another landmark.

Latitude: 30 deg 54’12.72”N
Longitude: 79 deg 06’21.19”E
Altitude: 4438m

I’m a bit surprised because I had read that Tapovan is higher than Nandanvan. The GPS readings say otherwise. It also feels higher.
Water is nowhere to be seen around our camp site. Mr. Munesh informs us of a water hole not more than a few hundred meters away. Our porters are dynamic and fetch water in plastic cans in a jiffy.
There is a self sustaining weather monitoring jig right in front of our tent. I’m fascinated by it and study it closely. It is complete with a wind vane, temperature and humidity sensors, a barometer, a VHF dipole antenna and a small solar module.
With nothing to do, I laze around in the sun. The sky is so blue and I’m tempted into photographing just the immaculate blue heavens. Suddenly we notice some movement in a nearby hillock and spot a herd of Bharals peacefully grazing on patches of dry grass. Although in close proximity, the animals are barely visible; well camouflaged in their stunning brownish coat. I stealthily get closer for a good photograph and just about manage one before they sense my presence and gallop into oblivion. Soon its evening time and fortunately Nandanvan is not as windy as Tapovan.
The evening is not much eventful with us closing our conversation with the Tapovan group. They have spent the day at Tapovan and intend paying a visit to Neel Taal (a few hundred meters from Tapovan) early morning before returning to Gangotri (24 km). So they will reach Delhi one day before us.

30/09/2009: Nandanvan-Vasuki Taal

We are yet again blessed with a clear and bright Sunny morning at Nandanvan. The sun rays don’t reach the meadow until 0815hrs. Strange it may seem, but Tapovan gets its first sun by 0630 hrs. This is because of our camp’s proximity to the Bhagirathi peaks on the eastern side.
This morning, the breakfast is a welcome change. Chappatis smeared with ghee and an onion-potato subzee makes a good meal (if you ignore the kerosene aroma in the Chappatis!). We manage Wheat flour/Atta: Thanks to Mr. Munesh & Khan.

Tarun gets ready early and leaves for Vasuki Taal along with a porter; an hour before we finally start out with Mr. Munesh at 1000hrs.
Nandanvan is a tapering meadow with our campsite located in the lower parts. We set off on a steady climb towards the higher parts of Nandanvan. As we gradually gain height, the meadow becomes rock-strewn with patches of vegetation disappearing rapidly. We also come across a frozen water stream that occasionally finds its way to lower Nandanvan. Mr. Munesh shows us a naturally formed crocodile head glacier on the Bhagirathi slopes to our right. The glacier remarkably looks like a crocodile’s head staring down the mountain slopes, complete with a neck and ears. An hour into the climb, the Shivling peak is barely visible, eclipsed by the mighty Bhagirathi range. The gain in altitude is apparent with the Meeru peak emerging in the background of Mt. Shivling.
We are now in Upper Nandanvan, a base camp site for expeditions attempting to climb Bhagirathi-I peak. Again Mr. Munesh surprises us by pointing out a barely identifiable trail of footmarks in the snow on the steep slopes Bhagirathi.
The trail now converges onto a ridge with Chaturangi glacier on the left side of the ridge. As the name implies, Chaturangi glacier has hues of four colors. I can predominantly see white (slate rocks) along with different shades of brown in the vast glacial expanse. The numerous glacial lakes in shades of blue and green add to the splendor. The ridge slope on the Chaturangi side is covered with snow, and the one on the Bhagirathi side is rock & mud. I guess, as the Chaturangi side is north east facing, it gets less sun this time of the year.
As we near the end of the ridge, the Snake hooded Vasuki Parbat stands out majestically. The glacier on the left is all sprinkled with snow. Tarun and the porter are waiting for us at the point where we need to get off the ridge. We reunite, recharge with some chocolates and watch a few porters traversing the final Vasuki ridge on ropes; beyond the icy white sunder glacier.
Tarun discloses his decision not to go any further. We are shocked and ask him to reconsider his thought. I strongly protest as Vaski Taal is just round the corner (glacier). He says that he is not confident of his mind-body coordination and would not like to take any chances. We are close to 5000m, with the air getting thin and the body reacting unpredictably to low oxygen levels.
Leaving Tarun behind, our guide Tripan Singh, our friend Mr. Munesh, our porter Nand Bahadur, old pal Bhagat & I descend into the snow covered Sunder glacier. With all moraines covered with snow, this short glacial patch is a welcome change. And with the sun bringing out the best, the scenery is the most beautiful I’ve ever come across till date. It seems I’m in wonderland, with intricate natural settings adorning the frigid zone. No words can describe this place. The photographs are only a partial testimony to its beauty. My friends from the other group (in Tapovan) would have really loved this place. I only wish they had made it.
After getting past the glacier, we all assemble at the base of the Vasuki ridge in order to be briefed by the guide & Mr. Munesh of the do’s and don’ts while using the ropes. Although we have our own set of ropes, a Russian group has already done the needful. The ropes are only for support, with most weight balanced on foot. We make it to the top of the Vasuki ridge soon and congratulate each other. Vasuki Taal is visible a few meters down the other side. This is the highest point we’ve attained on this trek. I turn on the GPS to check how high we are. It tracks over half a dozen satellites and the display barely readable in the bright sun shows:

Latitude: 30 deg 54’06.88”N
Longitude: 79 deg 09’46.91”E
Altitude: 4959m

That’s close to 16,500 feet above MSL (Mean Sea Level)
Its 1300 hrs and we have all the time in the world to explore Vasuki Taal. The Taal itself appears to be shallow and is not very vast. A small stream from the snowy slopes feeds this Taal.
Mr. Munesh narrates a recent incident that occurred 3 days ago when a young climber from Indian army fell to his death while climbing Satopanth peak. It seems he let go of his harness to click a photograph that cost him dear. As a consequence, the army guys have left behind a considerable amount of ration & fuel at Vasuki Taal.
We click lots of snaps and enjoy every moment at the Taal. I discover a pile of snow and use my hat and goggles to make a snowman. Bhagat is carefree and snatches some sleep on a rock. The Russians along with their army of porters have set up tents on the banks of the Taal. We spend a leisurely two hours at the Taal admiring the magnificence of the place, soaking in every bit of the brilliant landscape.
We wish luck to the Russians and march out of Vasukitaal at 1500 hrs. The descent from the Vasuki ridge is trickier and as I’m about to reach the base I suddenly slip and loose all my footing. All my body weight is on my arms, with my hands firmly gripping the rope. I don’t let go, just flip my body and regain my foothold. Every one is relieved and Bhagat is impressed with the way I recovered. I too am pleased with my presence of mind (Modesty gets you nowhere ☺). Had I let go of the rope, it would have been a nasty fall.

The evening has its own charm with shadows creating fascinating shapes on the mountains. I photograph a heart shaped shadow tucked in between snowy slopes. It’s late in the evening by the time we reach our campsite in Nandanvan. The sun is no longer visible, but still behind the Shivling range and gives an impression of someone holding a huge torch pointing towards the sky.
Tarun had reached the camp in the afternoon and has since had his lunch, slept for a couple of hours and is now all charged up. Bhagat & I are tired and go to sleep early.

01/10/2009: Nandanvan-Gaumukh-Gangotri

Today we are longing to get back to civilization after spending a week in hardship. I get up early by 0500hrs and spend a considerable time on a boulder facing Shivling trying to practice a few pranayams. It’s very cold out here, with a blanket of frost encrusting the meadow. The paucity of oxygen becomes very apparent when I attempt doing a pranayam. Although well acclimatized, I loose breath very frequently and have to modify my technique to be able to practice the same.

As we have to cover 25km today, we have to hurry up with the packing. Post breakfast, we thank Mr. Munesh & Khan for their support, exchange contacts and head for Gangotri. We shall be traversing the Gangotri glacier till we reach Gaumukh, and then the regular route via Bhojwasa & Chidbasa to Gangotri. We leave at 0900hrs with the guide and porters leading us into the glacier. We alternate between crossing Moraines and muddy banks of the glacier. After a tiring three n a half hours we descend from the glacier at Gaumukh. We don’t stop anywhere and continue our walk on the now comfortable trail. Excluding short halts, we travel non-stop to reach the check post before 1700hrs. We learn that our other group had returned yesterday.
Back at Gangotri, we check into our regular hotel, order a couple of hot water buckets and enjoy a well deserved bath (after five days). It’s been a great trek this year with the Gods kind enough to let us trespass their lands.
I call up the other guys who are about to reach Delhi and inform them of our successful return. My wife and parents are also relieved after getting to talk to me after what seemed ages.

Without any doubt, this has been the most awesome trek I’ve accomplished till date. Next year I’ve no plans to go trekking anywhere. I intend cycling on the worlds highest highway from Manali to Leh and then to Khardungla pass. Wish me luck!

My Recommendations for folks aspiring to go to Vasuki Taal

• Be very fit before starting out; exercise regularly.
• Arrange for guide and porters from Uttarkashi itself. Gangotri’s a mess.
• Travel in a small group of max 4-5 people (I agree with Mohinder)
• Be in touch with Mr. Karan of ‘Chandra Sang Adventure Foundation’, Uttarkashi well in advance for the permits, guide & porters. He’s a genuine guy with reasonable rates. I was very satisfied with his service and advice. He may be contacted at: 09412077967, 01374-223966
• Check out the weather portal http://www.accuweather.com regularly for Gangotri weather updates and forecast.